Mera Peak trek continued. October 2009

After a night in relative luxury in Lukla, the team started the climb to get over the ridge separating the Dudh Kosi valley from the Hinku valley to the east.

After a wet night in tents, the group climbed over the Zatrwa La - at 4610M our highest point so far and only 200M lower than Mont Blanc, the highest in the Alps. Everyone managed fine so our acclimatisation regime was working well.

We then descended only 300M or so to Thuli Kharka - the highest settlement in the area with tea rooms, for our next camp. We were greeted the following morning by snow, so much in fact that it had caused our mess tent to collapse on the porter sleeping inside. Fortunately he was uninjured. Up to this point, the weather was still poor and we had another day of trudging in the rain with no views.

However that afternoon the weather seemed to be improving as we descended into the Hinku Valley. At our next campsite at Kothe, we had this view the following morning, of the distant south face of Mera Peak.

We spent two nights at Kothe and attempted to walk up the valley visible here below the south face of Mera - only to find the trail so disused as to be almost impassable

From this point on we had good weather which was to remain for the rest of the trip. This view is up the Hinku Valley, the west face of Mera on the right and the peak on the left is Kyashar 6770M.

There is evidence of a recent serious flood in the valley bottom and if you look in the middle distance you can see a moraine that has been cut through and behind that - a hanging glacier. Inbetween the glacier and the moraine lies a lake - the Sabai Tsho, the lake's level has been lowered by 100M as, during a cloudburst 5 years ago, the lake cut through the moraine causing serious devastation below. Due to global warming such glacial lake bursts are becoming a real hazard for people living in these regions.


By now were were sleeping in tents and had been for the last 4 nights. we were being supported by a team of porters and a cook. The porters carried our holdalls, tents, cooking equipment, food and fuel. Our team were fantastic and couldn't do enough for us, they all worked very hard indeed and often in cold uncomfortable conditions yet we always got hot food and drink 3 times a day.

This picture was taken at Thangnak at the start of our 5th camp, the view behind is looking back down the Hinku Valley in the direction we had come from.

October 2009 Mera Peak Trek

In October, Iain travelled to Nepal to assist in guiding 8 guys from 3 Para Regiment in the UK, from Kathmandu to the top of Mera Peak 6476M - the worlds highest trekking peak in the Himalayas.

After a couple of nights in Kathmandu the team headed off into the mountains and this is a picture of us all at Paphlu airstrip. In the background are the Twin Otter aeroplanes that we used for a very exciting flight to Lukla.

Unfortunately, the weather was rather poor during our first week when we trekked from Lukla to Namche Bazaar and we only got glimpses of snow covered peaks first thing on a few mornings.

We followed the Dudh Kosi river valley on our trek . This river flows all the way from Everest and this picture was taken from one of the many suspension bridges we had to cross in what was fairly typical weather that week

This picture shows Billy & Graham, two of our clients with Namche Bazar behind them. Also in the backgound was a 6000M peak - somewhere in the cloud!

On this day we were heading to our high point at 4000M above the village of Khumjung having climbed over the last 3 days from Lukla at a hieght of 2840M. Each day involved climbing a little higher than the previous day and also sleeping higher too - necessary if we were going to acclimatise sufficiently for Mera Peak.



The next day we left Namche Bazar and returned to Lukla in one day and at this point the weather chose to clear up. On this day we could see lots of snow & ice covered peaks all around us but unfortunately a good view of Everest had been denied us the previous day.

However, on the descent from Namche to the Dudh Kosi River we were were rewarded with this distant view of Everest - this was the first time any of us had ever seen it!

Lake District Scrambling & beginners rock climbing courses

A few days after returning from Scotland, Iain was out again with clients. The picture on the left shows Anne and Jeremy Clarkeson who came out with us on a glorious day on Saturday 25th September for a beginners rock climbing course in the Lake District. Iain took the pair to Lower Scout Crag in Langdale where they climbed all of the easier routes on the face and learnt the skills of tying in and belaying.

Following this Anne and Jeremy had a go at Abseiling and then all three moved on to Stickle Barn Crag to have a go at climbing some harder routes before finishing at 16:30 well satisfied with the days events and with Jeremy & Ann looking forward to a Lake District learning to lead climbing course with Kendal Mountaineering Services some time in the new year; and in the meantime, getting some time in at a climbing wall.

The picture on the right was from the previous day and shows Stephen Holding about to tackle the crux move on Dove's nest Crag - Right hand groove, a classic grade 3 scramble in Borrowdales's Combe Gill valley. Prior to doing this, Stephen & Iain warmed up on Intake Ridge - another classic grade three scramble where Iain allowed Stephen to practice and polish up his scrambling ropework techniques in readiness for a forthcoming IML Assessment. Iain was so happy with Stephens performance that he allowed Stephen to take the lead on Dove's Nest Crag - Right Hand Grooves and Stephen was very happy with his day out on the Lake District Scrambling Course he had undertaken with Kendal Mountaineering Services.

This was twice in a fortnight Iain found himself working in Borrowdale one on one with clients - but we don't mind if you want some personal tuition - in fact Iain reckons it's the best way to learn. Many organisations refuse to work with less than two people but this is why here at Kendal Mountaineering Services we are famous for our bespoke outdoor courses where you get the benefit of our personal service and have a great time.

Its only three days now until Iain leaves the UK to help guide 8 Paratroopers up Mera Peak in Nepal. Finally - he's starting to get excited! More on that later.

And whilst Iain was in Glencoe

Back in the Lake District Andrea Abbas and her family enjoyed one of our Open Canoeing days on Lake Windermere.

This session was hosted for us by one of our Kendal Mountaineering Services associates who taught Andrea & her family all of the skills appropriate for using open canoes on flat and moving water

As well as spending time journeying on Lake Windermere, the group also spent some time on the rivers Brathay & Rothay.

As well as visiting the jump near Brathay Bay.

The family thoroughly enjoyed their day with us and hopefully, we may see them again in the future.

OM Supermeet, Glencoe, 19 - 20th September

After working with Kathryn Telford, Iain had a day and a bit off then spent an afternoon and evening coaching Kye Ettridge in the skills of mountain navigation and night nav on Loughrigg Fell in the Lake District.

The next morning found Iain frantically packing to head off to the Outdoors Magic September Supermeet to be based in Glencoe where Iain was to be running a couple of scottish scrambling days on Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis and the Aonach Eagach in Glencoe.

Iain had three clients booked for both days - all Outdoors Magic members and all returning clients of Kendal Mountaineering Services.

Unfortunately the run of dry weather experienced over the preceeding few weeks chose this weekend to end and having walked in to the foot of Tower Ridge on the Saturday morning the weather was cold, wet, windy & cloudy - definitely not a Tower Ridge day!

The above picture shows Sean, Maria and chris with Tower Ridge in the background - Douglas Gap on the right and somewhere above in the mist - the rest of the ridge. Anyway, these three had never summited on "the Ben" before, so Iain took them via Coire Leis up the south ridge on to the summit before returning via halfway lochan to the car at the Alt A Mhuillin.

The picture right shows Chris Sean & Maria almost back at the car with the Ben in the background. Despite a few gaps in the cloud the mountain didn't really appear all day and then the rain set in for the evening - a good excuse for a second evening in The Claichaig and as usual on a Saturday night, the Boot Bar was very busy.

The weather on Sunday morning dawned much better as this photo shows. Chris was out for a second day with Iain and was joined by Mike & Kelvin - both returning clients from the Outdoors Magic July Supermeet at Rhydd Dhu in North Wales where Iain had run scrambling courses in Snowdonia on Tryfan. The weather started off fair but by the time the party had reached the Summit of Am Bodach at the eastern end of the Aonach Eagach, it was clear that wet weather was moving in from the west.

Despite the changing weather, the party moved together fairly rapidly along the ridge to the interesting section between Meall Dearg and Stob Coire Leith. There are regularly parts where a rope is useful for the less experienced and so for most of the time the party remained roped between Am Bodach and the foot of Stob Coire Leith.

All three clients felt that apart from one exceptionally steep & polished section they would have probably soloed the ridge. Despite that Iain's view is that when paying for the services of a Mountaineering Instructor he has a duty of care and that the use of the rope was appropriate and this point was accepted.

Once off the hard part of the ridge the party rapidly reached the descent into Glen Coe. Guidebooks these days suggest continuing over Sgor Nam Fannaidh and then descending to the valley floor between that & The Pap of Glencoe rather than descending via the side of Clachaig Gully to the Claichaig Inn.

This is due to the fact that the head of the Clachaig Gully is a wide and easy angled scree shoot which steepens & narrows into a deep slot with many vertical drops - it is a place to be avoided and many people have come to grief here. For those in the know there is a footpath descending the rib which parallels the north side of the gully and whilst steep, somewhat exposed in its upper section and unrelenting, it brings you out next to the Clachaig Inn. We reached the Clachaig at 5pm and were ready for a welcome beer.

Clachaig Gully Descent Route If you have never attempted the descent via this route before - avoid it! Only attempt a descent of the path with someone who has done it before and even then you are well advised to steer clear of it altogether in bad weather. Iain Gallagher and Kendal Mountaineering Services accept no liability for anyone choosing to ignore this advice.

After a yet another evening in The Clachaig people departed - some on the Sunday evening and the rest of us on the Monday morning. Everyone seemed well satisfied with the weekend and Ian would like to say a big thanks to everyone who participated and made it such an enjoyable time and particularly to Steve who organised the whole thing.

14th & 15th September 2009

Well sorry folks.

Bloggers taken a mind all of its own again!

Iain actually wanted a row of 4 pictures down the right so he could put appropriate text in on the left, but Bloggers decided to do its own wierd thing! If anyone's got any idea of how to sort this problem then please let us know.

Iain found himself working in Borrowdale on these dates with a lady called Kathryn Telford who, having a few weeks off work decided that she fancied a few days rock climbing in the Lake District. Kathryn experienced difficulty finding someone to take her out climbing on her own and if you find yourselves with that problem don't hesitate to contact us.

Anyway Iain was available and, as Kathryn fancied some easy-ish multi-pitch mountain routes, suggested climbing in Borrowdale on Raven Crag and on Gillercombe Buttress.

The above pictures show Kathryn whilst climbing on Raven Crag Buttress - a 4 pitch VDiff. Iain led most of the piches but gave the lead to Kathryn on one occasion as well as doing lots of teaching en route. The weather was dry but a cold N Easterly wind made hanging around for any length of time on stances a tad uncomfortable.

Having completed this route Iain & Kathryn attempted a number of other less popular routes only to find them green, slimy and heavily vegetated with no sign of any recent climbing giving rise to the view that only the classic routes on the crag are still receiving any attention from climbers.

Anyway, the next day was started early and the weather was much better. We were at the foot of Gillercombe Buttress by 09:30 and the classic 7 pitch severe sharing that name was just warming up nicely. Iain led all pitches and Kathryn thoroughly enjoyed the route. Following that we moved right on to Grey Knotts Face - a 5 pitch Diff with a surprisingly difficult second pitch involving a tight squeeze up behind a detached slab. Iain couldn't get through it (he's not fat!) and so an alternative was found to this bit. Another two pitches up and it was 16:30 and time to be getting off. Of the two pictures above, the left hand one shows Kathryn traversing off the second route and the right hand one is enjoying the sunshine on the last pitch of Gillercombe Buttress.

A most pleaseant two days work!

7th September on

Its all been go go go this September. Iain actually had a break from all of this outdoor mountaineering stuff for a week, but didn't stop working. Amongst other things he had an annual tree pruning job to do for a client which takes the best part of a week. Fortunately during this time Summer chose to put in a re-appearance making the job easier than it might have been - its not much fun climbing 35 feet up on a ladder to prune giant yew trees with a petrol hedge trimmer - in the wet!

Also, whilst this was going on Iain was practising hard with another 3 musicians for an up and coming gig at Wilfs Cafe in Staveley on the evening of Saturday 12th. The gig was part of a 50th birthday celebration party for another Ian.

Well, the gig was a success with some 12 numbers being played by the band (called the Swiss Family Robinson for the occasion - the guy who organised it being called Pete Robinson) Iain provided the PA system and dusted off his Fender Stratocaster and valve amp rig to take the role of lead guitarist.

Songs played included the likes of Alright now by Free, Take it easy by The Eagles, I only want to be with you (Dusty Springfield) and Iain took the lead slot for Hey Joe and Fire by Jimi Hendrix - it all went down very well indeed and the band got another booking for a gig almost immediately. On his return from Nepal, Iain definitely intends to be doing more with these guys!