Tower Face of The Comb. Ben Nevis, Friday 20th February 2015.

So, on Thursday I committed myself to a plan; and that was to be involved in a climb that was way above anything I would attempt to a lead myself. Winter V'4 on a good day  is the hardest I've attempted and that was Diadem on Meagaidh some four years earlier.

This time I had been invited to join mate Dave Sharp and his friend John Crook on a day on The Ben. These boys are both hard committed climbers - and with good reason as both have recently joined the BMG Guides Scheme. It must be said though, that their love of climbing mountains came long before their desire to train to be guides - as you'll see as you read on. There is no point in doing a job unless you love it - you'll never give others your best otherwise.

04:15 the alarm went off - a truly early start for me and by 05:15 I was off to pick up Dave & John from their vans in the free car park at Fort William. The rain blatted off the windscreen as I drove to Fort Bill in the darkness, a part of me really wondered what the hell I was doing!

Lads collected, we soon arrived in a dark & wet North Face Car Park - how many parked cars!! As we kitted up a chap emerged from a bivvi tent next to a car. Now that shows some commitment; or lunacy - depending on your point of view!

The first two photos were taken as we emerged into daylight on the approach to The North Face. The rain continued until the top car park whereafter it became snow. By the time we arrived at the CIC Hut (photo two) we were in "full on" Scottish winter conditions!

Now, I have over 20 years on both Dave & John; and as we headed up the Allt a' Mhuillin, I found myself slipping further behind the pair who waited for me to catch up on two occasions. Sensing that I was perhaps "punching above my wieght" coming out with these two fit young fellas, I had a conversation first with Dave and then with John in which I made it plain that I considered it a priviledge to be out with them at all; and I expressed my concern that I didn't want to "hold them back". Neither of them would have any of it!

We trudged on up into Coire Na Ciste into gathering gloom and ever deepening fresh snow. It took about two hours to walk from the North Face car park to the CIC Hut and it took another hour to get to the foot of The Comb.

John can be seen approaching the foot of Comb buttress as it rears up out of the mist. At least we were sheltered from the wind of which there was virtually none - that is one of the good things about Coire Na Ciste - it is often well sheltered!

We all got geared up at the foot of the buttress and then Dave made his way up the left hand side in search of the foot of the route proper. It was chilly and still snowing hard and by now the fresh snow was getting really quite deep (photo four). I was truly glad of the ski poles loaned me by past client & friend - Alison Laws.

At last, after a short solo up on to a banked out ledge, we all found ourselves attached and with the lads keen and ready to go. Me - well, I wouldn't go quite as far as being keen at this stage; I certainly felt apprehension at what was up ahead. It was a classic "hard route" and harder than any winter climb I'd been on before. At this point, that was all I knew!

Photo five sees Dave & John at the first stance. Dave I've known for a while having met him through another friend and aspirant Mountain Guide Neil Mackay a number of years ago. Up until Dave invited me to join him on a winter ascent of Bowfell Buttress V'6 in February last year - all we had ever done was meet up for a pint in The Brewery Arts Centre in Kendal with others (when I would generally get wasted to the chagrin of my long suffering partner) Anyway - there  is more to life than drinking of course and so, it is with pleasure that I've been able to get out with Dave on occasion for something much, much better than a pint!.

John is a relatively unknown quantity. I'd heard his name mentioned a few times as being a mate of Dave & Neils so he was clearly an very good climber. To get an insight into what John is about one must read his blog crookclimbing and then you'll see he really is an outstanding climber & adventurer - it's an awesome read.

Likewise, Daves blog onthesharpeend is also a good read. Started only recently after Dave's ascent of the 1938 route of the Eiger with Kev Avery, Dave's got a good writing style and has done some fine stuff since then, so this promises to be worth checking out on a regular basis!

The SMC guidebook description for Tower Face of The comb describes starting from the left hand edge of a ledge and climbing  a left facing corner to reach a parallel ledge 10m above. Move right until halfway across the ledge then climb a short steep wall and mixed ground above to a good belay below the prominent left facing groove that cuts through the steep lower section of the face.

In photo six, John sets off up the left facing corner leaving Dave belaying and with me waiting in readiness, both of us on parallel ropes.

Part of the plan leading up to Dave & Johns "BMG Winter Induction" is for them to be climbing above the required grade of V and to be able to practice the ropework and stance management required for when working with clients and that is one of the reasons why, as a 3rd person, they were happy to have me along.

With John safely up and across the ledge having shouted down "safe" and then taken in the rope tight, it was my turn to climb up and then make the traverse across.

The climb up was not difficult; although there was an interesting moment getting past a block en route to the traverse which felt quite exposed and was covered in fresh snow. Sideways movement using a combination of "daggering" and front pointing brought me to a point from which I was able to take this photo of John on his stance midway across the ledge.

It felt like airy stuff and a trifle exposed, as with the cloud having closed in again - the base of the buttress could no longer be seen, However, I reached John with no difficult and we were immediately joined by Dave.

At the stance which consisted of several wires and a "Hex" all brought together to a central attachment point, a back wall & block formed an interesting corner at our anchor point. John decided that the route on lay with following the ledge to its far end and then trending back on to the ramp somewhere above our heads.

Off he went and after a while we got the shout of "safe" and then the ropes went tight. "Off you go" said Dave and so off I went - rounding the end of the ledge and then climbing the slabby ramp by way of an ice filled groove - plenty of good pick placements, no problem. I was enjoying this so far, but knew that the harder climbing was yet to come. Indeed, once were were all at John's stance (photo eight) it was commented on that the route thus far had been felt to be no more than IV - within my paygrade then! It had certainly felt ok to me.

Photo nine sees Dave taking a moment to look at the camera as he set off from the end of the ramp on to the crux pitch of Tower Face of The Comb.

The description is as follows

50m. Climb the groove and comtinue up easier ground to belay below an impending wall. A fine and sustained pitch.

Having looked up from the belay directly below on the ledge and also from this point, the pitch in question didn't look too bad at all.

The truth of the matter was soon to follow - for me at least!

One thing I hadn't bargained for with this steep and hard Scottish mixed climbing was the amount of hanging around that takes place for the belayer whilst waiting for the leader to make their way up the difficult pitches. The fact that the pitch was clearly harder than the previous two was not lost on me due to the fact that once around the corner, the rope was moving very slowly in comparison with the last two pitches that John had literally "flown up".

Anyway, here he was (photo ten) looking about as chilled as he could be waving his arms and stamping his feet to keep warm as we both "chilled down" - literally! on the stance - making the most of the opportunity to get a bite to eat & drink. I also got the opportunity to know him quite a bit better, so it was a good place to be despite the cold!

Photo eleven sees one of the many spindrift avalanches that came down the crux pitch and Dave can be seen right in the middle of this one. It looked kind of amusing - but of course the joke would be on you if you were in the midst of it.

By this time, we had been joined on our stance by a couple of German guys who we had seen moving up to the base of the route from our perch a little while earlier. It transpired they had, in fact, come all the way over from Bavaria to to try out the "Scottish winter experience". I got the distinct impression that were not too enamoured with it!

They were very patient whilst we all waited for Dave to climb the crux and once we duly got the call of "safe" from above - off we went with me some way behind John, glad to get moving again!

The climbing was indeed steep; and at one point, I found myself in extremis as the saying goes. A steep smooth slab on either side of me and only a narrow icy groove above in which to put picks that were ripping out "what the fuck do I do here!"  I shouted up "there's some good pick placements up above mate" was the reply. Somehow I found them and scrambled my way up to a spike that seemed to be just above the crux of the pitch; although I managed to get one of my lanyards wrapped around it. Fuck! I freed the lanyard but then had to be lowered back down below the spike to free the sling thread I'd not managed to dislodge on the way past. Back above the spike, I fell off when a pick ripped, then I was back on and easing up the icy chimney to the sloping stance above with encouranging comments from the lads "well done mate! - good climbing, nice one!" Later, I discovered that during this pitch, I had smashed the screen of my trusty Panasonic DMC FT2 camera. Bollocks! Oh well, at least it still takes photos even I cannot now view what I am taking.

At the stance above, we all had a bit of a rope fankle to deal with then John set off leaving me & Dave to wait it out. John had decided to go for the "Chimney Variant Pitch" graded at V'5 and he soon disappeared from view.

The fact that this pitch wasn't much easier than the previous one was once again obvious as the rope ran out again slowly; and Dave & I must have been on the stance for best part of two hours. During this time I became really cold and it was obvious that the down jacket I had donned under my shell wasn't doing the job. I was bloody freezing!

Eventually the rope came tight and off we went with Dave setting off first. A rather "lairy" traverse brought us both to the foot of the chimney (photo twelve) which was steep and hard to get into. There was a blank wall on the left and a turf hook really high on the right. With an axe in that and one in the back of the chimney I somehow managed to get purchase and make my way up, backing & footing, finding pick placements, more encouragement from the lads above. This time I didn't fall off.

Above here was a large stance where the others had been joined by the German lads again whose leader was just ahead of us on the final pitch. Dave set off up this with difficulty along a ledge where the steep wall above pushed him off balance. Once around the corner, the rope ran out quickly then went tight. Time to go! John followed mentioning something about using a hook to the left as I swung across the ledge. I suspected I might fall off but didn't  and once round the corner the ground was easy and I soon joined the others. Ahead loomed the final buttress - a sinch at grade III (photo thirteen)

Dave dashed off and can be seen on the left hand side of this final buttress giving John & I a direct belay. Once we were there, he led off up the final part just as easily and suddenly we were all at the top with only a narrow but easy snowy arete between us and the plateau. It was getting dark and the time 17:20. We had started the route shortly after 9am! A quick group hug and we were all on the top. The german lads had been inspecting the top of Comb Gully with a view to abseiling down (they had left their sacks at the bottom of the route) but Dave & John had heard the rumble of a large avalanche in the region of number 3 gully and it was felt it was better that they accompany us down the west face to halfway lochan and back out to the North Face car park. We descended this slope in a blizzard and in the dark - at times following a compass bearing and at other times following the tracks of others which led us down across the Red Burn towards Halfway Lochan. The deep snow that had fallen during the day continued all the way to the "top car park" and here we had a brief stop to eat whatever we had left in our bait boxes. At 20:40, we arrived back at my car which we had left almost 15 hours earlier. I, for one, felt pretty battered!

Was it a worthwhile day? At times, on the route, whilst freezing my nuts off, I found myself questioning this; and when John asked me what I'd thought of it all on the stance at the top of the Chimney variant pitch, I told him I wasn't sure. Indeed, despite the offer to climb further with these guys next week in The Gorms before they start their "Winter Induction", during the climb, I had moments of real reservation; and serious thoughts of taking the easy option to head for the warmth of home afterwards to be with a loved one who had let me come up north without question or reservations some weeks earlier.

I was invited to go out with Dave & John today - indeed, they were both keen that I should go. However, I'm glad I chose today to let them get on with it as I really do think I would have only held them back. You've got to pace yourself as you get older - whether or not you like it!

But as to more climbing with this pair - next week? definitely! Its looking like it will be more of the same in The Gorms until they have a rest day on Friday before the start of the Winter Induction. I'm sure it will be hard and it will be cold, but I'm sure I can deal with that. So yes - I'm going.

The truth of that matter is that yesterday was an awesome day; and it really was a priviledge to share a rope with these two. I spent the day doing what was undoubtedly, the hardest and most rewarding winter climbing I have ever experienced.

Thanks lads!

Winter Climbing & Winter Mountaineering Courses with Kendal Mountaineering Services. February 7th - 18th 2015.

Some time ago, we advertised that we would be in Scotland to run a number of Winter Skills, Winter Mountaineering and Winter Climbing Courses on the west coast.

The response was reasonable and we ran a Winter Skills Training Course firstly for returning clients Alison Laws and Darren Willis in Glen Coe. We spent the first day on Stob Mhic Mhartuin near to the Devil's Staircase looking at step kicking and Ice Axe Braking. The pair had a great time as can be seen in photo one. Here, Darren is having another go at Ice Axe Braking whilst Alison looks on.

Day two of this weekend Winter Skills Training Course in Glen Coe found us on Buachaille Etive Bheag on a col well noted for being suitable for Winter Skills Training Courses where there was a fair amount of snow to be found.

Here, we looked at step cutting using ice axes and techniques for moving up, down & across steep snow as well as finishing off our Ice Axe Braking techniques. We also looked at the construction & use of snow belays before finishing off looking at snow shelters. It is a rare occasion when Iain appears on the blog but here he is ( in the red jacket) having a conversation with Darren who had just constructed this snow shelter.

On day three, our focus shifted from Winter Skills to the techniques required for Winter Mountaineering. Winter Mountaineering requires one to be conversant with the techniques learnt on a Winter Skills Course; and then additional ropework techniques are applied where a slip on steep ground could turn into something more serious.

Darren had already attended a one day course with Iain in the art of Scrambling with a view to coming on further courses. So, Iain put him on the sharp end of the rope on an ascent of the Glen Coe classic mountaineering route - The Zig Zags on Gearr Aonach. Darren guided Alison and Matt up this route whilst being coached by Iain (photo three). Here, Darren is seen using "short roping techniques" on the lower part of The Zig Zags although there were several pitches to pass along the way to the summit where we used a number of belaying techniques including indirect belays from buried axes and direct belays using the rope as security around solid rock spikes. Darren did a really good job today bearing in mind that he had only had one previous day of scrambling coaching with Iain.

On day four, Darren was once again put on the sharp end of the rope after we had all walked into Coire An Lochan to attempt the climb - Dorsal Arete.

Dorsal Arete is a great little winter training climb used by many local Mountaineering Instructors. There are plenty of good belays and anchor placements; and usually a fairly good covering of snow & ice giving it the feel of a real winter climb. The "sting in the tail is towards the top of the route where the route changes from being a broad, friendly buttress to an exposed knife edged arete. Darren once again did a great job of leading the whole route and we emerged from cloud into bright blue sky and sunset at the top. A great end to another great day!

Darren departed from the course at this point returning to work in The Lake District. Iain, Matt & Alison had two further mountaineering days in Glen Coe - an ascent of Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor (read the facebook report here) and after a rest day, a traverse of the Aonach Eagach.

The Aonach Eagach is regarded of one of Scotland's classic winter mountaineering routes - being a technical grade III traverse along a 3km ridge bordering the north side of Glen Coe involving abseiling and scrambling. The most exciting part is a traverse of "the pinnacles" seen here in photo five. The route took the whole day, but was a fitting finale to Alison & Matt's winter week with Iain.

This week, so far, has seen Iain out with Simon & Annika Hatfield - returning clients who have attended both Navigation Skills Training Courses and Rock Climbing Courses with us in the Lake District in the past.

Annika and Simon fancied three days learning the winter skills required to allow them to venture safely in to the mountains in winter. So, Iain ran a Winter Skills Day for them in the same area as the previous Sunday. You can read a report from that day on our facebook page here. The course should have been of two days duration as the previous one, but due to the fact that the weather was due to deteriorate seriously today, it was decided that the winter mountaineering day booked for day three would be carried out on day two. Iain took the part for a hardcore winter mountaineering day on the Ben Nevis classic - Ledge Route (photo six). The weather was due to deteriorate during the day and it did, but we managed to complete the route  and escape via Number four Gully

Now, after a day off, Iain will be joining trainee Mountain Guide Dave Sharpe and his mate John Crooks to attempt Crest Route (V'6) in Coire Nan Lochan in Glen Coe tomorrow. The winter work is over for the time being, so, it's playtime instead!

For full information as to what we are doing at the moment please visit the Kendal Mountaineering Services Facebook page as this is updated on a daily basis where possible - unlike the blog at the moment!

For anyone interested in undertaking a Winter Skills Training Course, Winter Mounatineering or Winter Climbing Courses in the Glen Coe.Ben Nevis area, Iain hopes to remain in the area until the end of February so he can be emailled at info@kendalmountaineeringservices.co.uk or give him a call on 07761 483364. Winter Skills Courses start at a price of £60 per person per day (minimum of two persons) and Winter Mountaineering & Winter Climbing Courses £90 per person per day (minimum of two persons). Helmets, harnesses ropes, rack & instruction by this experienced Mountaineering Instructor are included in the price. You will need to provide your own climbing axes, Crampons & Winter boots.

Iain looks forward to working with you!

What's been happening in January 2015 at Kendal Mountaineering Services?

January 2015 has been a mixture of work and play for us here at Kendal Mountaineering Services.

The beginning of January saw Iain out with Darren Willis and his mate practising Scrambling Skills on Tarn Crag in Langdale (photo one). Darren has spent a number of years successfully building up his business and now wants to develop his mountaineering skills ultimately being able to lead multi-pitch climbs in both Summer and Winter. This day was spent looking at secure methods of belaying for scrambling and despite being a chilly day in the valley, conditions were fine at the crag for working. Darren is hoping to join us in Scotland next month for our Winter Courses and has already booked a place on our May Trip to the Cuillin Ridge of Skye!

Generally, the weather hasn't been great in the Lake District recently for any sort of climbing - rock or winter-wise!

Iain & Kirstin therefore chose to take off for a week of Mediterranean sun and some sport climbing on the island of Malta.

For those of you who don't know, Malta lies almost smack bang on the middle of the Mediterranean Sea about 50 miles south of Sicily and the two main islands (Malta & Gozo) are composed almost completely of Limestone - ideal for sport climbing.

Around the edge of both islands are valleys running down to the sea and in many of these sport climbing areas have been developed. Photo two was taken at a venue called "Flakeout Walls" near the town of Mgarr Ix-Xini on Goza

There is a whole climbing guide devoted to sport climbing on Malta which has been developed by the Malta Climbing Club. The guidebook can be puchased online or from MC Adventure in Malta. There are sport climbing venues throughout both islands - but be prepared to be climbing at 6a+ if you want to get the most from the guide and your time climbing!

Many people from the UK head south in winter to climb in the Mediterranean and there are lots of good climbing venues in may of the regions countries. Be aware though, that being winter - it can rain too; and unfortunately, three out of our five potential climbing days were thwarted by wet weather - it's the luck of the draw we guess. However most days would, at some point, look as pretty as this west coast view on Malta - following a rather wet morning!

So what have we got to look forward too? Well, Christmas was a busy period for us with many people buying our Gift Certificates to pay for activities and skills Training Courses for families, friends and loved ones. Indeed - if you are looking for that special gift with a difference - then visit the webpage to buy a Gift Certificate here.

One of the most popular purchases were places on our Weekend Navigation Skills Training Courses in The lake District (photo four) and indeed - next weekend Iain runs one of these courses on a bespoke basis for five women from a Preston based running club. We hope the weather is kind to all of us!

Finally, Iain is look ahead to February's Scottish Winter Season.

We have a Winter Skills Training Weekend in Glen Coe (photo five) taking place during Saturday & Sunday 7th & 8th with two people currently booked on at £120 for the two days - but by all means do join us! If we get more than four then the price drops down to £100 each, so it's worth considering.

Immediately following that weekend, we have five days of winter Mountaineering and Winter Climbing Courses running - also in the Fort William/Glen Coe area and we would be pleased to have more join on these. Cost is between £60 & £90 per person per day depending on the course you book on to and includes helmets, harnesses, ropes and winter climbing rack as well as tuition from a Mountaineering Instructor. Crampons & Ice Axes will be required but not provided; although we can advise where to hire yours. To book a place on any of our winter courses contact Iain here.

We look forward to working with you.

West Coast Scottish Winter Climbing Courses. Monday 9th - Friday 15th. 2015

The Winter climbing season has already begun in the UK with a number of ascents of classic Winter climbing routes already having taken place in Scotland. True - at the present moment, its a little unsettled & mild, but climbing conditions are bound to improve again soon!

At Kendal Mountaineering Services, we offer a number of options to those wishing to take up Winter Climbing. Ideally, you should have experience of scrambling or climbing outdoors on dry Summer rock if you wish to learn the skills of Winter Climbing; and will also have undertaken a Winter Skills Training Course to prepare you for walking in the Winter mountain environment.

However, if you already have sufficient experience of winter walking, crampon & ice axe techniques; and wish to be guided up a Winter climb then we can organise this for you.

To this end, we intend to be in the Glen Coe/Fort William Area during most of February. We are specifically offering you the opportunity to learn the techniques of Winter Climbing or be guided on one of the areas winter routes at anything up to grade IV in standard depending on your ability. This will be during the week of February 9th to the 15th.

Wherever there are mountains - there are Winter Climbing routes. Some areas are more popular than others and aspiring Winter climbers will have heard of areas such as Glen Coe where photo one with Benn was taken on Dorsal Arete (grade II) and the Northern Corries of The Cairngorms where this photo was taken of Mark on Invernookie (grade III'4)

Other areas also include Ben Nevis and Aonach Mor near to Fort William and Creag Meagaidh midway between Fort William and Aviemore. These are all great areas for learning how to climb Winter routes and all have classic climbs that we are happy to guide on if you would just like to be led up something!

All of these areas are readily accessible and can be reached from England border in four hours to Fort William and five hours to Aviemore. Both are good places to base yourself when attending one of our Scottish Winter courses - each with a wide variety of accommodation types, restaurants and supermarkets.

And once there - you are ready to start your Winter Climbing Skills Training Course or Guided Winter Climbing day with one of our instructors. You will be met, the evening beforehand your course if necessary, to go through your equipment, make your that you have everything necessary and check crampon fitting etc.

Your instructor will provide a copy of the climbing forecastand the local avalanche report the details of which they will discuss with you. In conjunction with these, and an appraisal of your ability and aspirations for your course, your instructor will choose an appropriate route that fits all requirements.

Winter Climbing Skills Training Courses and Guided Winter Climbing days are long demanding days - so expect to get up early and experience walk ins which may be 2 hours as a minimum. Ideally, you should have a good level of hill fitness if you want to get the most out of these courses.

The type of ground you will find yourself on will be dictated by the type of course you are attending. If you are attending a Guided Winter Climbing Day such as the pair in photo three then the ground may be grade 1 through to Grade IV. In this instance, the pair were on Green Gully, Ben Nevis - a classic Winter ice climb graded at IV'3.

On our Winter Climbing Skills Training Courses you are likely to be working on ground up to, but no more than grade III in standard where you will be coached by a Mountaineering Instructor who may well be moving alongside you  - coaching you as you climb.

The three seen in photo four enjoyed a progressive Winter Climbing Skills Training Course with us - in this photo they were climbing on Dorsal Arete (grade II), Coire An Lochan, Glen Coe; and they accomplished the route well. For their second day, due to the increased avalanche forecast, Iain coached them on nearby Sron Na Lairig before guiding them through the cornice at the top of the route. Again, they climbed this route well and took away a lot of new skills with which to use in the Winter mountain environment.

Maria, seen leading in photo five, attended one of our week long courses in 2010. Maria  had attended our Scottish Winter Skills Course followed by our Cairngorms based Navigation & Snowholing 2 day course before trying her hand at Winter climbing during one of our Winter Climbing Skills Training days.

It was a perfect progression for Maria who took very well to Winter Climbing. For Chris, the progression on to snowed & iced up rock was possibly a little easier as he had previously attended one of our Lake District based Scrambling Skills Training Course, a Cuillin Ridge Traverse Trip and a Winter Skills training course with us prior to joining Maria on this route - Twin Ribs in Coire an t Sneachda in The Cairngorms.

All of our courses are intended to be progressive. They are designed to improve your understanding of winter climbing techniques and improve your confidence to go on to try bigger & better winter climbing routes for yourselves!

Our final photo in this post sees Benn - on the last day of his 12 day progressive Winter Climbing course booked with Iain in 2012. Rather than explain it, you can read all about Benn's course here - if you wonder what a client is doing out in front, well, sometimes this is appropriate!

Our team of Mountaineering Instructors have a considerable amount of experience climbing in Winter in both The Lake District and Scotland and they will enjoy organising an appropriate package for you in either area. Whether it be learning Winter Climbing Skills or guiding you on that classic Winter route all of our staff are passionate individuals who will be intent on providing you with the best possible experience whilst keeping you safe.

We believe we provide excellent value for money with all of our Winter Climbing Courses and these cost £150 per day for two persons or £180 per day for three. We will be based in the Glen Coe/Fort William area during the week of February 9th - 15th to provide your Winter Climbing Course. You can book as many or as few days as you like, you can also attend on your own as we already have other people booked in to these courses who will be looking for climbing partners! Meet them here on the Facebook Event Page!

Contact us via the website for more details about these courses or contact Iain on 07761 483364. If you are looking for something at short notice there is likely to be availability at short notice and in that instance - please ring Iain. We look forward to working with you.

West Coast Scottish Winter Mountaineering Courses. Monday 9th to Friday 13th February. 2015.

Interested in a Winter Mountaineering Course? Kendal Mountaineeering Services  will be running such 

courses in the Glen Coe/Fort William area between Monday 9th and Sunday 15th February 2015. There will be more dates to follow in March!

Are you thinking of spending some more time in the mountains this winter?  You have already attended a winter skills course already and like the idea trying of some of those more interesting ridge routes leading on to your favourite mountains? You may have heard tales of others undertaking Winter Mountaineering routes such as Sharp Edge on Blencathra, Striding Edge on Helvellyn or maybe Curved Ridge on Buchaille Etive Mor in Glen Coe, The Aonach Eagach or Ledge Route on Ben Nevis? The idea of Winter Mountaineering sounds exciting & exhilarating stuff, however, you don't feel confident to try such routes for yourselves having heard that rope work is involved and perhaps feeling that you are lacking in the skills necessary to tackle these routes and stay safe!

At Kendal Mountaineering Services, we have a number of Mountaineering Instructors at our disposal with a great deal of experience on most classic Winter Mountaineering Routes. Why not start out your winter mountaineering experience by being guided by one of our experienced staff on an appropriate Winter Scramble just like the pair in photo one - you can then decide whether or not Winter Mountaineering is for you!

You may then choose to be guided up some further Classic Winter Mountaineering Routes to gain confidence or learn the skills to make your own way such as the person in photo two. Here, he has just prepared a belay in readiness to safeguard his mates while they cross an exposed crest on Sron Na Larig in Glen Coe.

These guys had already ascended Ledge Route with us and had successfully climbed Dorsal Arete in Coire An Lochan the previous day. So, we felt that they were ready for a Mountaineering challenge like Sron Na Larig as an opportunity to consolidate and further develop skills already learnt. Our plans for your Winter Mountaineering Courses are always built on the basis of your existing experience and aspirations. Your safety must always come first & foremost - followed by enjoyment, learning and satisfaction.

Our prices per day for Winter Mountaineering days in The Lake District & Scotland start at £150 per day for 1 - 2 persons or £180 per day for 3 persons this being the maximum one Mountaineering Instructor is able to work with on easy grade 1 - 2 Winter scrambling ground. We will happily work with larger groups - bringing in more instructors to work with your party as required.

Our Winter Mountaineering Courses are run on a bespoke "booked when you want to do it basis" and you choose how many or as few days as you want. Depending on our availability and the weather conditions, you can book your Winter Mountaineering Guided Day at short notice - so it will be worth giving Iain a call on 07761 483364 to check on his whereabouts and availability during the next four months.

Benn - seen in photo three, booked a progressive Winter Mountaineering Course in 2012 with Kendal Mountaineering Services split into 3 four days blocks. His course commenced with a 2 day basic Winter Skills Course in Coire An Lochan, a guided ascent & descent of the Winter Mountaineering Route "The Zig Zags" and a guided ascent of Dorsal Arete - all in Glen Coe.

By the time that photos three & four were taken (both on Ledge Route, Ben Nevis) Benn was exhibiting such competence & confidence that Iain was happy, with coaching, for Benn to get on the "sharp end" of the rope as he is here - short roping Iain in this photo.

The use of the direct belay (photo three) and short roping (photo four) are both some of the techniques used for ascending Winter Mountaineering Terrain and these will be demonstrated to you during a guiding day or during a Winter Mountaineering Skills teaching day which will take place on grade I or II ground. Benn had this to say at the end of his course with us

Well sadly it's the end of my course :-( but what a course it's been, when Kendal Mountaineering Services say they 'give you what you want' they're not lying that's for sure! Iain has been a fantastic guide and coach throughout. He inspires confidence where it matters, he's funny, engaging and finds a great balance of having fun and being safe in the mountains. He didn't fail to answer any of my thousands of challenging questions and his knowledge of the mountains is unquestionable. I feel so much more confident in the mountains and it's all down to Iain and his great teaching style. If you want to do anything in the mountains Iain is your man! Just look at that last photo and they are the moments you do it for. Thanks to Kendal Mountaineering services and a special thanks to Iain ( Taken from this 2012 Blog Post)

So, just like Benn, you too can enjoy a great experience on one of our Winter Guided Mountaineering Courses or Winter Mountaineering Skills Training Courses in The Lake District and Scotland - where will we take you if conditions are fit? Well, here's a selection

Lake District
Striding Edge, Swirral Edge, Helvellyn. N.E. Ridge, Catstycam. Sharp Edge & Hallsfell Ridge, Blencathra. Jacks Rake, Langdale. Central & Custs Gullies, Great End - to name a few.

And in Scotland
Curved Ridge, Buchaille Etive Mor. Aonach Eagach, Sron Na Lairig, Dinnertime Buttress, Zig Zag Route, Glen Coe. The East Ridge.North Top Stob Ban, Glen Nevis. Ledge Route, Ben Nevis. Golden Oldy, Aonach Mor West Face - and many more!

If you would like to know more about our Winter Mountaineering Courses in The Lake District & Scotland then contact us via the website. Further details of past courses Iain has run can be found be reading the KMS Blog between December & March each year. As mentioned here at the outset, Iain will be in the Glen Coe/Fort William area between February 7th & 15th 2015 - so get in touch to book your Winter Mountaineering Skills Training Course for then! We look forward to working with you in the coming months.

Into Winter 2015 with Kendal Mountaineering Services. Winter Skills, Winter Climbing & Winter Mountineering Courses.

Winter conditions in The Lake District are coming & going at the moment. Photo one was taken the day after boxing day. Sadly the snow has all but disappeared again. We would like to be able to run Winter Courses here in The Lake District but that is not going to be possible unless we get a good dump of snow followed  by some freeze/thaw conditions - but not too much of the thaw mind!

Yiu can view other pics from this snowy lake District day here. It was a day worth getting out for!

Starting towards the end of January, we will be in readiness to run our Scottish Winter Courses. These will include Winter Skills Courses and our first projected date for these is February 7th & 8th 2015. The venue for this winter skills course will be Glen Coe and the cost will be £120 per person for the two day course with a maximum group size of six persons per instructor.

If we don't achieve a minimum group size of four then the course will be cancelled - so do tell anyone you can think of who might be interested in joining!! Book by the end of January and get your two day course  for only £100.00!

Food & accommodation are not included on these courses but if you contact us to make a booking, we will put you in touch with a number of bunkhouses, hostels and B & Bs in the area.

On our 2 day Scottish Winter Skills Courses you can expect to cover a comprehensive syllabus. The course is designed to help you become self sufficient in the winter mountain environment and deal with snow & ice of different consistencies. One of the first things we'll show you is how to use your ice axe to prevent a slip turning into a slide. There are a number of ice axe braking scenarios to cover and the chap in photo three is about to arrest from a forward facing slide.

Amongst other techniques, we will also show you how to provide security for your peers when you are out in the winter environment.

There are many methods of making belays (anchors) by using the snow, a rope, your ice axe or even just yourself and a hole in the snow. We will look at basic snow & ice anchors, buried axe anchors and how to use Deadmen (a shaped aluminimum plate specifically designed as a snow anchor). Other methods include the use of a body belay from a bucket seat and the use of equipment in other ways such as the Stomper Belay or the boot axe belay as shown here in photo four.

Many winter skills courses do not cover the scenarios of belay construction and basic ropework - but we do, because we think you ought to know what to do when you might need to!

Amongst other skills we'll cover snowpack assessment and avalanche prediction. Avalanches are a real source of injury & death in the mountains in Winter so you will need to know what to look out for in the snowpack as a result of wind action and recent snowfall. Reading forcecasts from the Mountain Weather Information Service and the Scottish Avalanche Information Service are really good places to start as we will explain.

As well as being able to interpret snowpack and deal with security of steep ground, we will also show you what to do if you are caught out by bad weather, injury or benightment.

There are a number of options for building an improvised shelter - the easiest is to tunnel sideways into a bank of snow to build a snowhole but you may have to build a shelter from blocks of snow or by other means. We'll show you what to do!

Finally, you'll need to be able to use crampons to deal with hard snow (neve) and ice when kicking or cutting steps becomes too laborious a process.

Crampons can be a life saver on one hand or a serious hazard on the other.

We will teach you how to use crampons properly during you winter skills course using as many points as possible in contact with the ice to give you maximum security on icy terrain; and how to change the way in which you use them as the angle of the ice gets steeper.

To book your place on our West Coast based Winter Skills Course taking place in Glen Coe on Saturday & Sunday 7th & 8th February 2015 contact us here, give Iain a call on 07761 483364 or join the facebook event page here.

A weekend at Plas-Y-Brenin. The Jagged Globe 2014 Leaders Forum. December 6th 2014.

It is quite a while since Iain has been in North Wales. Kendal Mountaineering Services doesn't get much call for Skills Training Courses in Snowdonia which is a shame, as for mountaineering and climbing, the area has more to offer than our native Lake District.

However, Iain recently received and invite to attend the Jagged Globe Leader Forum which was to be based at Plas Y Brenin - the UK's leading Mountain Training Centre. Photo one is a view of the lake to the west of Plas Y Brenin - the Llynnau Mymbyr. Crib Goch can be seen beyond the head of the lake and there is snow on the south side of "The Glyders" to the right. Plas Y Brenin is set right within the heart of some of Snowdonia's most striking mountain terrain and has a very long history as a centre providing training courses for Outdoor Pursuits.

The second photo is looking in the opposite direction - east along the Nant Gwryd. Plas y Brenin has great facilities of all types and great access to watersports on site as well as the mountains.

Iain well remembers a Level 3 Open Boat Training Course that he attended here in 2003 that started on the slipway to the left in this view. We all headed out on to Llynnau Mymbryr where we very quickly discovered just how unmanagable an Open Canoe, paddled solo, becomes - in anything more than a force 3 wind!

The Brenin has also long been famous for its dry Ski slope which gets used all year round in addition to its other facilities. The main building has a bar in addition to accommodation & dining facilities, a conference room and a climbing wall. There is plenty to do here for the outdoor enthusiast both indoors and out.

Jagged Globe were here to use the Brenins facilities as a venue for their Annual Leader Forum. The day spent in the Conference Room was very interesting - more in that in a moment!

Photo four is a view from the bar looking across to Moel Siabod - one of the biggest hills in the area and as you can see - in Winter Garb yesterday morning.

Iain, along with a number of other people had arrived at the Brenin the previous evening having booked the weekend package of two nights B & B and breakfast. The first evening was spent "networking"!

Photo five - another view from the bar looking along Llynnau Mymbyr yesterday morning. So who are Jagged Globe? Well, for 27 years, Jagged Globe has been at the forefront of organising mountaineering expeditions, mountaineering courses, adventurous skiing and high-altitude treks from within the UK. The company specialises in organising logistics and travel intineraries to the world biggest mountains including Mera Peak and Aconcagua which Iain has already climbed.

Business tends to quieten down for us here at KMS over winter and Iain hopes to get on to Jagged Globe's books as an Expedition Leader. With that in mind, the company invited him to attend their leader Forum which was great fun. As regards working for them? Well - watch this space!

Photo six sees some of the organisations many Expedition Leaders as we all prepared to enter the Conference Room. Topics were diverse but centred around mountaineering and altitude. First up was a discussion around the tragedy of trekker - Rachel Burke who died from Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) in 2011 on the Everest Base Camp Trek. The discussion centred around the events leading up to her death; and how this could have been avoided.

Second up was Kay Mitchell from Xtreme Everest telling us all  about the effects of high altitude on human physiology and what can be done to prevent AMS. This organisation recently set up camps on the route up Everest from the Nepal side with the support of Jagged Globe and a number of other organisations and here trekkers & mountaineers underwent significant physiological testing for the effects of altitude. The results made for very interesting reading.

After Lunch, Iain Sherrington from Glenmore Lodge told us all about the steps the organisation has taken following their avalanche tragedy in 2013. Glenmore Lodge subsequently invested heavily in Avalanche Tranceivers and other equipment and now provide avalanche training to clients as part of all their winter courses. A three year trial programme will lead them to conclude whether or not to coninue with this course of action beyond that point.

Photo seven looks towards the bunkhouse accommodation at Plas Y Brenin from outside of the conference room.

After Ian Sherrington's presentation there followed a rather moving presentation by Paul Sheridan - a trekker who survived a snowstorm on the Thorung La in Nepal during October in which a large number of others lost their lives. The presentation only served to strengthen the view of a need for education with regards to the importance of proper mountaineering clothing being carried by trekkers and their guides and the putting in place of a strategy to deal with the effects of bad weather on this and other high mountain passes.

The final photo is of the front of Plas Y Brenin on the A4086 at Capel Curig.

To finish off the day, we heard, from a well known local instructor, about his recent experience on Ama Dablam when, due to an impending turn in the weather, some clients decided to ignore a carefully planned acclimatization programme for ascending the mountain and climb too high, too quickly! The result nearly led to the death of one of the trekkers when other members had to go to his rescue. Lessons were learned!!

After an most interesting day, all those attending the forum adjourned to the dining room at Plas Y Brenin for a pre-arranged Christmas Dinner. What followed was a merry occasion which continued into the small hours.

Thank you to Plas Y Brenin for hosting the event and for providing great facilities and a great setting in which to conduct this forum. For Iain, it was great to be back at a place from where he has many great memories - as he prepared to gain his Mountaineering Instructor Award over ten years ago.

And also thank you to Jagged Globe for arranging a fantastic and informative forum which was a great deal of fun to attend. Looking forward to the next one.........